John deere fuel shut off solenoid bypass

I have several B&S engines that have a solenoid on the bottom of the carb, I know they require 12v but sometimes they don't work and sense I never have a problem on carbs without these can they be disabled or replaced with a dummy plug.
Also I tried removing one of these but it just kept spinning? Is this normal, is
there another to get it off?

normally they unscrew. it may be broken if you get a wrench on it and the body just spins.

If it fails, or the pins break (I wrecked my pins by mowing around pine trees and a branch caught the wiring), you can unscrew it (well, maybe :hide: ) and then clip off the plunger.

Its a safety device thats shuts off the fuel when the ignition is turned off, and its cheap, fix it properly.

they aren't that cheap. For the B&S motor on my Ariens WAW34, just the solenoid is over $100. And buying a brand new motor is under $800.

I have several B&S engines that have a solenoid on the bottom of the carb, I know they require 12v but sometimes they don't work and sense I never have a problem on carbs without these can they be disabled or replaced with a dummy plug.
Also I tried removing one of these but it just kept spinning? Is this normal, is
there another to get it off?

You have to remove the fuel bowl and hold the nut inside to remove the solenoid.

they aren't that cheap. For the B&S motor on my Ariens WAW34, just the solenoid is over $100. And buying a brand new motor is under $800.

You're right, I just replaced one and was shocked at the $100 price tag.

You have to remove the fuel bowl and hold the nut inside to remove the solenoid.

there is no NUT inside.. it screws into the part that goes thro the float.. these r called the Anti-Backfire Solenoid.. or ABS.. cut it off & u may wake up ur neighbor who lives 10 blocks away.. these also hold the float bowel on the carb..

You're right, I just replaced one and was shocked at the $100 price tag.

What Part Number was it?

Last one I bought which was for a B&S engine was 2 or 3 years ago and the cost online was $42.00 plus shipping.

I think there must be several different styles and Part numbers of these solenoids.
Mine just unscrewed out the bottom. I cut the stem off and reinstalled to get by til the new one arrived.

I tore one up on a kohler Command engine. I took it the rest of the way apart, taped it, put some JB Weld on a 1/4 inch bolt and am using it. easier to just buy the bowl screw but where I live you either wait for shipping or drive 25 miles to the mower shop.
Cannon

as I said they hold on the float bowel.. there is a lil gasket there too.. I've found out that the lil flat copper gaskets used on brake lines of cars & trucks seal up real pretty when used one is lost or damaged..

On the Kohler engines that I've worked on the plunger had a rubber cap that would come off for replacement. Take off the cap and problem solved. The engines always had fuel shut-offs in the line so the backfire problem was solved.

What Part Number was it?

Last one I bought which was for a B&S engine was 2 or 3 years ago and the cost online was $42.00 plus shipping.

I think there must be several different styles and Part numbers of these solenoids.
Mine just unscrewed out the bottom. I cut the stem off and reinstalled to get by til the new one arrived.

It was #699728 and this "good old American B&S part" was made in Japan.

My ZTR has a functional ABS, and it will still backfire like a shotgun if you shut it down without idling the engine first.

On the ones that I've bypassed, they didn't backfire any worse than with the solenoid still installed. On those, I just took the solenoid off, clipped the needle off, and put them back on.

Do it at your own risk. You don't know how a specific engine is going to behave. If nothing else, it will get you by long enough to finish the task at hand until you can get a replacement.

there is no NUT inside.. it screws into the part that goes thro the float.. .

Whatever, you have to access it from inside the fuel bowl and hold it so it doesn't turn.

Whatever, you have to access it from inside the fuel bowl and hold it so it doesn't turn.

OK... I'm stupid & never have taken a carb apart is what ur sayin.. well the fact is what holds the float bowl onto the carb.. this part they r talkin about does that job.. I think every guy will back me up on that one..

now for proof Cannon51 posted pics of one in the 9th postin of this tread.. in the first pic on the right is the part that screws into the carb.. on that part is 2 flat sides 180 degrees from each other.. put an open end wrench on them to unscrew it..

Whatever, you have to access it from inside the fuel bowl and hold it so it doesn't turn.

OK... I'm stupid & never have taken a carb apart is what ur sayin.. well the fact is what holds the float bowl onto the carb.. this part they r talkin about does that job.. I think every guy will back me up on that one..

now for proof Cannon51 posted pics of one in the 9th postin of this tread.. in the first pic on the right is the part that screws into the carb.. on that part is 2 flat sides 180 degrees from each other.. put an open end wrench on them to unscrew it..

Gentlemen,

I've worked on several different designs of the same mouse trap, they all did the job but looked different in appearance.

Let us keep it friendly and learn from each other. :fing32:

Thanks!

SD

.

All this back and forth. There are several different ones. Even on same briggs ohv there is one (short) for walbro and long for Nikki carbs.
Some (walbro mainly) have a rubber tip that will harden and
Vibrate up and down on splines. It can run for 30 seconds or 30 mins until it messes up. Restart is fine and it repeats.
They often fail and do not energize and pull away from jet hole.
They are about a min of 68.00 now.
One of the most over priced lawn mower parts there are!
Many engines that have properly operating ones still pop on shutdown.
They all unscrew from carb threads with a thin 1/2 open end. I have ground one thinner to fit.
The briggs Intek twins around 2003 and newer have the (kind of) nut inside. The bowl comes off with 2 Phillips screws then you will see the little foot like inside that the solenoid screws into.
I have jb quick welded many with the rubber tip and none have raised back up off of splines.
The best bet whether they work or not or whether tip is cut off or not is too idle engine slowly for 15-30 seconds before turning off key.