Jeep tj heater core replacement without removing dash


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Heater Core Swap in 30 Mins

08-08-2016, 03:10 PM

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Heater Core Swap in 30 Mins

Assuming it's the actual core and not related to the lines in the firewall. My second heater core failed about a month ago and not wanting to pull the dash and all other bits for a third time I looked for an alternative route.

It turns out the dash doesn't have to be removed if you don't mind a little bit of cutting. Part of the dash 'cage' will need cut at the heater core to your speaker pod. I've not noticed and adverse effects with this piece now being gone and the glove box still functions properly. The best part is, super quick core changes on future failures!

Here's a few pics.

The bit that needs cut out.

An oscillating tool made cutting the lines eay.

Tubes on new core cut and ready to slide in.

Hose spliced in and ready to refill and test.

Not all this had to be removed, but I was planning to do a super clean of the inside after the core replacement. You'll be able to get by with just removing the glove box, the square snap in panel below it and the hand full of screw around it. A bungee or small ratchet strap will help hold things out of the way while you operate.

On to the old core. Like the others, passenger side was clean and clear whilst the driver side was clogged with crap.

That's all there is to it if you don't mind slicing a little. Removing the dash for a 3rd time was just too much for me, life's too short to give up another weekend.

 

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08-08-2016, 03:26 PM

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So what's causing these heater core failures on your jeep? I live roughly an hour or so south of you so the environmental factors are roughly the same.

....and I've also got a 2010 in mango tango...

 

08-08-2016, 03:50 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by karls10jk

So what's causing these heater core failures on your jeep? I live roughly an hour or so south of you so the environmental factors are roughly the same. ....and I've also got a 2010 in mango tango...

I'm not totally sure. I got about 110k out of the original and about 50k out of its replacement. The coolant reservoir is clean, no deposits or sediment of any kind in the bottom, the coolant itself always looked clean, and the radiator itself looks pretty clean as well (I slipped a bore scope down in it last weekend when I replaced the core). I also replaced the water pump when I replaced the heater core the first time since I had everything drained and it looked clean in there as well.

I have no idea what those deposits are, but they're hard as a rock. The core failed at the lower elbow both of the previous times.

 

08-08-2016, 04:02 PM

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Did you top up with tap water somewhere along the line or had the incorrect coolant (OAT) introduced to the system somehow?

I'm at 140k with a fluid swap at 110k but I cleaned the sediment/ sand from the bottom of the reservoir pretty early on.

 

08-08-2016, 04:21 PM

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Nope, never used water of any sort. It's never needed to be topped off and I've used Zerex G05 50/50 mix on the refills. I didn't flush with water either time just so I wouldn't have to worry about mixture, just 50/50 and done.

 

08-08-2016, 04:51 PM

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I wonder if the Zerex has anything to do with it. I've been on the Mopar fluid and distilled water....which might be overdoing it and super anal.

 

10-08-2017, 04:40 PM

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Heater Core Swap in 30 Minutes - Any updates?

Hi All,
Have there been any updates - has this procedure had any negative affects to the dash? Has anyone else tried it?
Thnaks,
TJ

 

10-28-2017, 06:17 AM

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How has this worked?

B. Law - How has this mod worked for you over time? Any complications?

Just developed a leak in my heater core yesterday and looked up the insanely unrealistic process Chrysler designed around replacing the core and wanted to scream...then stumbled across your thread. Going to do a temp bypass for a couple of weeks so I can get around (weather here is mild in Texas) and will order a core to put in a weekend or two after I get back from Lone Star rally in Galveston. Your feedback on how yours has held up on the mod and any complications with the dash will help me decide if I want to go all the way or if I want to just do the shortcut (pardon the pun).

Quote:

Originally Posted by B. Law

Assuming it's the actual core and not related to the lines in the firewall. My second heater core failed about a month ago and not wanting to pull the dash and all other bits for a third time I looked for an alternative route.

It turns out the dash doesn't have to be removed if you don't mind a little bit of cutting. Part of the dash 'cage' will need cut at the heater core to your speaker pod. I've not noticed and adverse effects with this piece now being gone and the glove box still functions properly. The best part is, super quick core changes on future failures!

Here's a few pics.

The bit that needs cut out.
Attachment 654191

An oscillating tool made cutting the lines eay.
Attachment 654192

Tubes on new core cut and ready to slide in.
Attachment 654195Attachment 654194

Hose spliced in and ready to refill and test.
Attachment 654196

Not all this had to be removed, but I was planning to do a super clean of the inside after the core replacement. You'll be able to get by with just removing the glove box, the square snap in panel below it and the hand full of screw around it. A bungee or small ratchet strap will help hold things out of the way while you operate.
Attachment 654193

On to the old core. Like the others, passenger side was clean and clear whilst the driver side was clogged with crap.
Attachment 654200Attachment 654199Attachment 654198Attachment 654197Attachment 654201

That's all there is to it if you don't mind slicing a little. Removing the dash for a 3rd time was just too much for me, life's too short to give up another weekend.

 

11-01-2017, 08:07 AM

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speaker pod

when you cut the dash cage from the heater core, to the speaker pod, were you able to put the speaker back in?

 

11-17-2017, 10:50 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by B. Law

The core failed at the lower elbow both of the previous times.

My 09 developed a leak a while back at the lower elbow as well. My wife hopped in the passenger side when we were leaving one day and asked what I spilled in the floor. Coolant puddle.

The leak was spraying a fine stream from where the elbow meets the core body. I didn't want to tear the whole dash out to change the core so I cleaned the area with acetone and packed it with steel putty. Leak fixed.

May have to try this option and go ahead and replace the core.

 

Can you replace your own heater core?

You'll need several tools to get this job done, including a jack, jacks stands, a socket set, wrenches, pliers, a drain pan and rags. Besides a new heater core, you'll also need coolant. You may need heater core hoses and hose clamps. When you find the heater core, raise the front of your vehicle, placing it on jacks.

How long does it take to remove a heater core?

6-8 hours,2 people,if they know what they are doing!

How expensive is it to replace a heater core?

The total cost of parts and labor will range between $800 and $1,000 to have your heater core fixed by a professional. Labor costs vary, so call ahead and get a quote from multiple repair shops. If you fix the heater yourself, you'll only have to pay for the cost of a new heater core which runs between $100 and $300.

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