Dash kit: A dash kit includes any trim pieces and brackets needed to mount a new radio in your dash opening and keep a clean factory look. Wiring harness: A wiring harness makes connections between your new radio and your vehicle's wiring. Splice the harness's wires to your new radio's wires, then plug the other end of the harness into the connector you unplugged from the factory radio. Antenna adapter: An antenna adapter connects the plug on your vehicle's antenna cable to the standard Motorola antenna input on your new radio. Integration module: An integration module plus a wiring harness connect and enable communication between your new radio and your vehicle's factory electronics. Splice the module's wires to your new radio's wires, then plug the other end of the wiring harness into the connector you unplugged from the factory radio. Steering wheel control (SWC) adapter: A steering wheel control (SWC) adapter makes the connection between your new radio and your vehicle's factory steering wheel audio controls. In most cases, you'll have to connect wires, and set the adapter to work with your new radio. Speaker Wiring Harness: Speaker wiring harnesses make connections between your new speakers and your vehicle’s factory speaker plugs. Speaker Bracket: Speaker brackets bolt into your vehicle’s factory mounting locations, and allow you to install aftermarket speakers. 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee STOCK radio decided not to return my CD! LOL Decided I was going to install a Kenwood with Bluetooth & such. Picked up a proper double DIN to single DIN trim kit. Also picked up a harness BUT after soldering the harness to the Kenwood harness the radio did not power up. I quickly figured out that the harness I purchased was not pinned out properly. I decided I would cut the oem harness and solder/shrink tube the
Kenwood harness in BUT ran across a strange issue! Whats odd is I can ID the two hot's and the two grounds BUT I only have 6 speaker wires! I'm thinking perhaps the front speakers share a negative wire and the rear
speakers share a negative wire. I don't have an amp. I don't have the Boston Acoustics speakers. My stock radio works w/po issue, I can fade the front/rear speakers. EXTREMELY FRUSTRATED. Ideas, suggestions? Thanks Joined Aug 28, 2016 · 169 Posts
Here is a link to the correct pinout: http://wkjeeps.com/wk_audio_pinouts.htm You should also note that there is no switched power. The way it works from the factory is the canbus tells the radio when to turn on/off. There are "harnesses" that interface with the canbus and give you a switched input wire. This is the route you must go if you have an amp or steering wheel controls. If you don't have either, the alternative is to just piggyback
off of the cig lighter for switched power. Joined Jun 27, 2017 · 31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 26, 2017 (Edited) Not jiving with the documentation JeepersMisters directed me to. Pin 1 - Red/Orange - Fused B(+) UPDATE From the above information I have relized I will have to purchase additional hardware to maintain my Boston Acoustics Amp. I'll be
swinging by Best Buy after work tomorrow. More $$ to spend but at least I'll still have great sound. Thanks Joined Aug 28, 2016 · 169 Posts
If you don't have wiring for the front speakers you probably do have the boston acoustics system. The sure fire way to tell is to check and see if you have a factory amplifier. It is located behind the plastic panel on the left of the cargo area. You may have to pull the plastic out just a bit to be able to see it. It is shown here:
http://www.wkjeeps.com/interior_trim.htm#QUARTER As for wiring a radio with the Boston Acoustics system, there are some things to be aware of. The system is entirely controlled via canbus. What that means is the stock head unit doesn't change volume or fade options. Instead, it sends commands to the amplifier via the canbus to control those functions.(which is why it only has rear
L/R outputs and no front ones) What that means for you is you need a wiring harness that includes a control module to take over these functions. In my installation I used the Pac Audio RP4-CH11. Here is the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-RP4-CH11-Replacement-Mitsubishi-Volkswagen/dp/B0072LCY86 The other option that I believe is a bit
nicer is the iDatalink Maestro RR: Hope that helps! Joined Jun 27, 2017 · 31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · Jul 26, 2017 If you don't have wiring for the front speakers you probably do have the boston acoustics system. The sure fire way to tell is to check and see if you have a factory amplifier. It is located behind the plastic panel on the left of the cargo area. You may have to pull the plastic out just a bit to be able to see it. It is shown here:
http://www.wkjeeps.com/interior_trim.htm#QUARTER As for wiring a radio with the Boston Acoustics system, there are some things to be aware of. The system is entirely controlled via canbus. What that means is the stock head unit doesn't change volume or fade options. Instead, it sends commands to the amplifier via the canbus to control those functions.(which is why it only has rear
L/R outputs and no front ones) What that means for you is you need a wiring harness that includes a control module to take over these functions. In my installation I used the Pac Audio RP4-CH11. Here is the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-RP4-CH11-Replacement-Mitsubishi-Volkswagen/dp/B0072LCY86 The other option that I believe is a bit
nicer is the iDatalink Maestro RR: Hope that helps! Thanks ever so much for the links. I did figure it out. Thanks for the links! Joined Aug 28, 2016 · 169 Posts
No problem! Good luck! Keep us posted on how it goes Joined Aug 28, 2016 · 169 Posts
Also, just a heads up as to what I meant by saying the Maestro RR is nicer. The Pac Audio RP4 CH11 functions by telling your amp to turn on and go to its max volume. The volume control is then just left to the output level of the head unit. It gets the job done but there are two downfalls of that method: The Maestro RR solves this by interfacing with your radio to give controi over amp volume/fade. These functions do require you to have a more recent model
head unit. On their website they have a list of units that work with these functions. If I were to go back and do it again myself, I'd probably go with Maestro RR instead of the Pac Audio (Wish I had known!). That being said, the shortcomings of the PAC aren't big enough to make me want to go back and rewire now that its done. Hope this helps you inform your decision of what to use. Joined Jun 27, 2017 · 31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · Jul 26, 2017 Purchased the Kenwood kdc-bt565u Joined Aug 28, 2016 · 169 Posts
That Amazon link you provided appears to be a Canadian price quote. oh my bad. I was just sending that for reference. I actually got mine at Best buy I think I'm tempted to say that your unit doesn't support the extra functions of the maestro since it's a single din. Joined Jun 27, 2017 · 31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · Jul 26, 2017 Ordered the unit via Amazon. Will update after install. Joined Jun 27, 2017 · 31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · Jul 30, 2017 Purchased the following; I did have the original thread below and will update from their ( Audio, CB & Ham Radios, GPS, & Electrical) Thanks All |