2004 honda civic fan switch location

Yeesh, still updating this thread.

The car ended up misfiring pretty badly recently, and after limping it home (this car has never left me stranded, even when battered and bruised) I found a pretty fouled up (kind of green) #3 spark plug (12k miles on these, give or take.)

I finally got my hands on some block tester fluid, and surprise surprise, it turned a little green. At least a noticeable green compared to the dark blue it's supposed to be.

So, I yanked the head off and replaced the head gasket/bolts/t-belt/tensioner/water pump. The old head gasket looked fine and the head was awfully flat, but the one head bolt seemed to require less effort to crack loose. I don't know if that matters or not. I did notice a very very slight scratch-mark on the one cylinder wall (#2) that looked like a crack, but I couldn't feel it and couldn't see it from the water jacket side, so I'm chalking it up to a scratch. I wasn't interested in yanking the block, anyway.

Flush some things out, reassemble, fire it up, and it's idling at 1500RPM and is heating up (~220*). Let it sit overnight, disconnect the battery for 10 min, lift the nose of the car in the air to bleed it, and fire it back up. This time it actually starts to idle down, sounds smooth as usual, revs fine, fans are kicking on and the temp is normal, etc. I assume it's bled, but I'm skeptical.

I honestly don't know if the headgasket was the problem, but I'm not interested in rebuilding/replacing the motor, so this is basically the last of the work. If it stops overheating I'll continue to drive it, but if in a few weeks it overheats again I'll probably unload it.

A fast question about the timing belt - when replacing it, I did it Honda's way where I had it set to TDC, rotated the crank pulley ~3 teeth, and while holding the wrench on the crank pulley I tightened down the tensioner pulley. I did this probably 10 times, because it just didn't seem tight enough to me (based on other cars I've worked on), but after a while I figured this is what's required and just buttoned it back up. When I got the car running, it seems like there is a slight whine. Honestly, I haven't driven the car in a week and don't really recall if it used to "whine" or not, so maybe it's a normal noise and I'm overthinking this, but can you even over-tighten the belt when doing it Honda's way? I wasn't prying the tension pulley up or anything, so I honestly don't understand how I could've over-tightened anything.

Thoughts?

Edit: To answer axis11, I don't think the car was burning anything. When it would overheat, I usually ended up adding a tiny amount of coolant, but I just assumed it was being pushed out of the overflow/around the radiator cap, based on the residue left over.

First point of call is to get your car scanned and see what codes come up if any. Also find the relay for the fans and see if it is faulty. They are mostly all the same and can often be interchanged. Find a non critical one like the Horn or headlight relay and swap it out with the fan relay. If that works it is your relay and then you just buy one that is the same.

With your engine running and you have your interior fan lever/switch on does it blow air on all positions? As sometimes that switch can fail.

Assuming it is working. Interior fan all the way on, AC on. Engine on, in neutral or park handbrake/Ebrake on.

Engine at operating temperature. Where is the temp gauge sitting, in the middle way under or way over the middle position? Lift bonnet/hood then check and see if fans are running, both should be. Do not assume because they aren't that your fans are bad. It could be a temp sensor failure.

We're offline for a tune-up, we'll be up and running smoothly very soon.

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What are the symptoms of a faulty cooling fan switch?

Common signs include engine overheating, the Check Engine Light coming on, and a broken or shorter signal wire.