I live my life in protective styles. Wigs and braids are my go-to, not just because I like how they look, but also because I hate doing my hair. I'm not very good at it, and I don't care to be. But this attitude is presenting some challenges during this time. While social distancing means that we're taking the necessary steps to control the spread of a pandemic, it also means that I can't go to a professional to get the braids under my wig redone. And I'm terrible at braiding my own hair. But how long should I leave braids in?
Ursula Stephen, hairstylist to celebrity clients like Zendaya and Tiffany Haddish, says that when it comes to getting better at general maintenance and skills like braiding, now is the perfect time. But, don't expect to turn into an expert overnight.
"If you can't braid at all, I can't teach you," she says. "That's a skill that some people can do, and some people can't. You can look on YouTube and somebody can teach you how to braid, but that doesn't really mean you're going to know how to do it."
If you already have braids in, Stephen says that in times like these, you can stretch your style past the typical six-week mark, depending on your hair type.
"It's a matter of just checking in with your hair and seeing how your hair holds up," she says. "People who have really strong thick hair, they can keep braids in for a really long time, and it won't bother their hair line or edges or cause a problem. But that those who have thin hair can't really take it, and they will have to take it out after those six weeks."
But three months is the longest you'd want to keep your braids in. "Sometimes after that it can get a little dangerous because it could start to break off, dread, and knot up," says Stephen.
Lacy Redway, Nexxus style and trends curator and celebrity stylist, suggests an even shorter timeline. She says eight weeks tops, especially if you have bigger braids, which won't last as long as smaller ones. "When your braids start growing out and displaying a lot of new growth, it’s usually an indication you need to take them out," she says.
It's important to keep your braids hydrated, especially if your braids include synthetic hair. "You should definitely moisturize and over condition, because synthetic hair can be very drying to the hair," says Stephen. "The longer you keep it, the higher risk of it getting dry." She says to mix penetrating oils like avocado or olive oil with a leave-in conditioner or curl cream, and place them in an applicator bottle. This will make it easier to get the product between and into your braids.
Depending on when you got your braids installed, and how much longer it is before things return to normal, you'll have to take out your braids eventually. If you're like me and want to keep your hair flat under wigs, I find flat twists to be easier than cornrows, but still a bit difficult. The easiest way around this is to just pull your hair into a low pony tail.
"The idea is to just have something that's flat underneath the wig. That could be braids, that could be a low pony tail," says Stephen. "If you can't braid, brush it back into a really low, tight ponytail and put a stocking cap on it." Be sure to take the pony tail out when you're not wearing the wig to release the tension on the nape of your neck.
Even though you're not spending much time outside, Redway says you should still take the time to wash your hair. "It’s important to maintain a healthy hygiene and also a healthy scalp," she says. Keep up with the same wash routine you have normally. "Washing typically varies on how quickly your scalp builds up with oils and or products. Once a week or every other week can be doable for some."
If your ends need to be trimmed, Stephen says to place a leave-in conditioner or split-end sealer on your ends, and to keep brushing and combing to a minimum.
While you're on this journey of taking car of your hair, Redway cautions not to take things too far. "I don’t suggest for us all to become kitchen beauticians or experts with tools we are unfamiliar with," says Redway. "This would be a great time to focus on the health of your hair and to continue to hydrate and moisturize. Leave all the cutting and chemical processes to the experts you will see outside of quarantine."
In case you were wondering, here's how long you can go without showering and what happens when you don't wear underwear for multiple days in a row.
Protective styles are a go-to for many naturals, but many still have questions about proper maintenance. To a large extent, how often you get your hair braided depends on the style and your
hair. Truth be told, some of us have really fine hair that will break off in a stiff wind, so braiding with extensions, no matter how infrequently, is out of the question. And if that is the case for you, the strands of our hair are so fine that they are unable to handle the weight of extensions. Sounds like you? Install your braids using the crochet braiding method. However, if your strands are able to handle it, you may install braids in your hair as often as you like, provided you take the
following guidelines into consideration. Leave at least a week between installations so that your scalp has the opportunity to breathe.If you've been thinking about getting braids installed then you have certainly chosen the right time of year for it.
How often should I get braids installed?
How long should I wait before getting braids installed again?
Before your next installation, be sure to prep your hair for braiding with intensive deep conditioning treatments that improve the strength and moisture of your hair.
How do I maintain my natural hair while wearing braids?
As tempting as it might be, braiding one's hair is not a "fix it and forget it" kind of deal. In order to maintain or improve the health of your hair while wearing braids or any other protective style, you must continue to moisturize your hair and scalp. A homemade hair spritz is great for this purpose and you can probably make one pretty easily with ingredients you already have on hand.
How often should I wash my braids?
Washing your hair while it is braided or twisted is a matter of preference but choosing not to wash your braids doesn't mean you can't still have a clean scalp. One way to keep your scalp free of dirt and product build-up is to cleanse your scalp with witch hazel.
If you would like to wash your braids without causing frizz, do it while wearing a stocking cap is a great option. You must be prepared to maintain your braids while you wear them and though your routine doesn't need to be elaborate, you must ensure that your own hair stays moisturized and your scalp is healthy and clean. Check out this video from YoursNaturally11 for more braid guidance.
How long should I keep my braids in?
Talk to your stylist to determine how long your specific braids should be in to maintain the health of your hair and scalp, but as a general rule try to keep your braids in for no longer than 8 weeks at a time for optimal scalp and hair health. According to Mane Addicts writer Kadia Blagrove, two months should only be your cut off point if you are refreshing your hair as you go.
Here's the truth:
However long you keep your braids installed is a personal choice things like activity level and how you maintain them will play a role in how long you are able to keep them in. I would say it is best to err on the side of caution and keep your braids in for no longer than 8 weeks as long as your hair and scalp show no sign of distress. If you notice any breakage or persistent tenderness then it's a good idea to take your braids out to curtail any damage.
Just remember this: your protective style will only work if you do!